Thursday, November 29, 2012

My Italian Debut, part 1

I am a fan of a particular video game series, and a good chunk of its middle portion takes place during the early Italian Renaissance. I've no desire to cosplay as any of the major or minor characters, but when I made this outfit, I occasionally pictured myself as a part of the background.

Anyway, with my new Zanobia persona, I needed an appropriate outfit, and the SCAdian clothes I previously made were Irish. This needed to be rectified. As it so happened, I had a linen kirtle I started to make but never completed (the embroidery didn't excite me as much as I hoped, which killed my interest,)
and enough voile in my stash to make a camica.

To motivate myself to finish the whole thing, I gave myself a deadline to have it completed by New York ComicCon 2012.

This kirtle was initially meant to be worn for hot weather, and was linen lined in cotton broadcloth.The most important thing was to do surgery on the kirtle. I took it apart, which was tedious as it meant removing the embroidery around the neckline. Once the bodice was in pieces, I used the former lining as a toile and took in (and took in and took in,) the excess material so I could have something snug enough to give my bosom proper support. I took at least an inch off of the side of every piece.

The new lining for the bodice came from a golden remnant of linen. For the front, I quilted two layers together for extra support. I then trimmed down the edges of the outer fabric, folded them over the lining, and hemmed all sides of each piece, except for the tops of the shoulders. That came later.

After the hemming, I whipstitched the sides of the bodice together, added lacing rings, and tried it on so I could pin the straps for optimal fit.

I removed the lining from the skirt, stitched the former split skirt into a tube, hemmed all the raw edges, and cartridge pleated. As my patience has limits, the hemming was done by machine, using the blind stitch. the construction seams were also machined. The cartridge pleating and attachment were done by hand.

For a final touch, I added a double row of some shiny cord that's been lying around for years.

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